By Dr. Curtis Varnell

A rock structure over there and, closer to the road, an old log house. To the left is the remnants of an old store, the oil and tobacco advertisements still clinging to the dilapidated walls, hanging by a few rusty nails. Across Arkansas, in far too many instances, we run across these small towns and communities that, once vital, are now crumbling and forgotten.

Traveling north from Booneville on highway 23 one scarcely realizes you are passing through the once thriving crossroad town of Chismville. Located on the old mail route that ran from Clarksville to Waldron and bisected by roads going to Ozark and Charleston, the community thrived servicing the needs of the many travelers on their way west. The original structure, a large two story dog-trot home, was built in 1845 by Dr. Stephen Chism. The structure stands just to the east of the ford crossing six-mile creek and adjacent to forks in the old roadways that stretched in all directions. Similar to locations where interstate highways intersect today, it was a natural location to obtain food, water, and other supplies.

By the Civil War era, the surrounding area had attracted several businesses and farms. Located on the mail route, a post office was established to service the surrounding area. Stage coaches operated by the Chidester family rolled through the community, delivering passengers to Fort Smith and westward. Favorite son, Benjamin Chism, joined the Confederate army and rose to fame fighting at Wilson Creek, Pea Ridge, and other locations. Others from the same community joined the Union cause, resulting in bitter infighting and bushwhacking in the community. Bitterness from the war resulted in the entire Chism family moving to Roseville, Arkansas where Benjamin became involved in politics, eventually serving as the Arkansas Secretary of State.

By 1900, the town had four stores, a post office, two blacksmith office, a hotel, several churches, a saloon, and a newspaper. Local farmers brought hundreds of bales of cotton to the local cotton shed where it was then transported to market. In 1898, the railroads bypassed the town. Like small towns everywhere, when bypassed as a transportation center, business began to decline. The first to go was the cotton industry, followed by stores and business, and then, eventually by the young as they moved to find jobs. An all too familiar story to Arkansas today!

The old Chism house and much of the town began to crumble. The only things that remain are the foundation and crumbing walls of the hotel and store, both barely visible and covered by ivy. No stores, no churches, no school, the only thing reminding us of the town that once existed is the sign on the highway.

In 2009, the old Chism house, now 174 years old, was virtually the only thing remaining of the original town. Placed on the National Register of Historic places and purchased by a local family, the house was restored using the traditional log restoration methods and stands as a wonderful example of pioneer architecture.

Traveling by this old community, the old house reminds one of times gone by but also saddens as we realize the story of our towns is often only temporary and what stands today is not forever.

By Dr. Curtis Varnell

Travel throughout the region and you will see structures that were built by the CCC or the WPA.  These include Cove Lake, Spring Lake, Petit Jean Mountain lodge and cabins, Waldron’s home economics and agriculture buildings, Devils Den headquarters plus dozens of bridges and roadways.  Enjoyed by thousands, few remember how these structures came to be nor how much the jobs meant to the economic recovery from the Great Depression.

The Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) began in 1933 to provide young unemployed men badly needed jobs while, at the same time, developing very needed improvements in our country’s natural areas.  The Works Progress Administration did much the same but was more oriented to older men with families to support.  Both provided millions of jobs to people who lacked the jobs and income to support their families.  

The CCC workers actually lived and worked on site.  The young men were housed in camps consisting of 200 men and the support people that directed them.  In Arkansas, there were 77 of these companies and they undertook 106 projects.  Many of the buildings and trails still remain as a testament to the work they accomplished.  The craftsmanship of the projects amazes me.  Petit Jean mountain lodge and cabins are beautiful with large log structures framing rooms containing awesome rock fireplaces and waxed hardwood floors. Similar structures are found in nearly every state park that exists.  Many of the hiking trails I enjoy were carved out of dense forests, lined with native stone, and stair-stepped for our use.  For this labor, the CCC worker received $30 dollars a month plus $25 dollars sent back home to support their family.  Remnants of the old camps can be seen on highway 7, on Nebo Mountain, and at Camp Shiloh located near Russellville.

My grandfather worked for the WPA.  The WPA is best known for the building of roads, bridges, and government building. My grandfather and many other local men constructed the road up to Magazine Mountain and constructing Cove Lake and its buildings.  Most of the employees worked 32 hours per week and received about the same pay as the CCC workers.  Though cheap labor, it was often the only source of cash for the families of the workers and they were glad to get the jobs.  My grandfather and several relatives would get up early, prepare breakfast and put the left-overs in a lard bucket for lunch.  They then walked together up the valley to Red Bench road, down Red Bench to what is now highway 109, and catch the worker bus there which would take them on to the work site.  They often had to carry a lantern to light their way as they went to and from work.  

Most of the public buildings have a monument stone which tells when the structure was built and what group are responsible.  It is astounding how many buildings and structures built by these men are still standing.

With no Social Security plan, nation-wide projects like these were possible and people were willing and able to work.  I am glad we have the safety-net of social services to fall back on but wish we still had the work ethic and national vision to improve the world we live in. 

Taking a teacher group to Petit Jean mountain, I saw the beautiful monument that honors the workers of these programs.  Life-size, the monument shows a very muscular and handsome young man holding an ax, a determined look on his face, gazing into the heavens.  Pointing at the statue, I exclaimed, “My grandfather worked for the WPA and that is his statue.  People say I look just like him.”  The statement was greeted with howls of laughter and more than one “in your dreams.”  Such is the life of we unappreciated teachers!!